Hasedera Temple

   I had a chance to visit the Hasedera temple grounds in Kamakura recently.  I have visited before (several times over the years), but this was different.  I have always gone during the day when they are generally open, but apparently this time of year they do a special event where they light up the premises and the fall foliage, and open the grounds from sunset for a few hours.  Being there at night gives the whole place a different feel and look, and the stars of the show are the red-leaved Japanese maples all through the temple grounds.  There are several ponds, and the reflections of the lighted leaves against an inky black sky are striking. 

Lighted Japanese maples against night sky

   I really love the stone lanterns, they come in so many sizes, shapes, designs and textures.  I may have to figure out how to get one back to the States . . .  I’m guessing it’ll be too heavy for a suitcase.

Lighted maples and stone lantern

   Unfortunately you can’t take pictures of it, but there is a 30-foot tall carved and gilded statue of the “eleven-headed Kannon” at the temple.  According to the brochure, “Kannon is usually described as the “Buddhist goddess of mercy”, but strictly speaking it is neither masculine or femine.  Kannon is a bodhisattva (a future Buddha destined for enlightenment who has vowed to save all sentient beings), and represents compassion, mercy and love.”  According to legend, this statue at Hasedera is one of two carved from the same large camphor tree around 720 AD.  One is in Nara where the tree grew, and this one was thrown in the sea near Osaka, and washed ashore near Kamakura fifteen years later, sending out rays of light as it did.  The temple was built to house and honor the statue.  The gold leaf that covers it was added in 1342. (That almost makes it “recent” in Japanese history [grin].  Being here resets your sense of “old” pretty quickly.)

   In addition to the Kannon, there are lots of statues of Jizo on the grounds.  Jizo is a bodhisattva “possessing great powers including all the blessings of the Earth”.  The rows and rows of Jizo statues are “there to comfort the souls of unborn children”.  The statues are usually adorned with red caps and bibs (because red is the color for expelling demons and illness), and people often leave little children’s toys next to them.  Jizo is almost always depicted with a “six-ring” staff in one hand and a wish-granting jewel in the other.  The staff has rings at the top that jingle when the staff is used as a walking stick, and the sound is to warn any sentient beings to get out of the path of the walker, so that Jizo will not inadvertently step on an insect and break the Buddhist injunction against the taking of any life.   There are lots of stories and versions of Jizo, but this gives you the concept.  Again, at night with lights it gives the whole tableau a new dimension altogether.

Rows of Jizo statues

   I’m hoping to continue visiting temples and shrines here in Japan, especially when they have special events like this or yearly festivals.  More on that later.